Features and styles
The collection includes jeans and denim trousers from various brands: Carhartt WIP, Edwin, Aiburai, Tela Genova, Fortela, Universal Works, and Briglia 1949.
Edwin: straight, tapered, and loose fit
Edwin, founded in 1947, offers jeans in the cuts stated in their name. TheRegular Straightfeatures a straight leg from knee to hem, in Dark Used Blue and Unwashed (unwashed denim). TheRegular Taperedstays regular through the hip and thigh and tapers towards the ankle, in Rinsed, Dark Used Blue, and Deep Dark Used washes. TheLoose Fit Japan Rinsedis the widest fit: it is the Edwin model to check out for a baggy jean.
Rinse and selvedge washes: Aiburai, Tela Genova, Briglia 1949
Aiburai features several models; among these, theZeus T, theEttore, theEracleand thePersein Rinse Dark Blue, and theAchillein Gray, the only grey denim mentioned on this page. Tela Genova features models declaring selvedge in their name, theRodolfoand theItalo, both in Rinse Blue. Briglia 1949 joins with thePortobello Denim Blue.
Carhartt WIP: workwear denim
Carhartt WIP is the line from the Carhartt brand, founded in 1889. ThePayson Pant 15.75 oz Blue Rigidis heavyweight unwashed denim: 15.75 ounces of fabric that arrives rigid and molds to the wearer's body shape. Fortela and Universal Works complete the collection.
Jeans styles: new arrivals
With the current season, new jeans and trousers have arrived. Edwin, Aiburai, Tela Genova, Fortela, Universal Works, and Briglia 1949 are fully renewed; Carhartt WIP adds new styles to those already in the collection. In this selection, we focused on dark, minimally washed blue: rinse for Aiburai and Tela Genova; rinsed, dark used, deep dark used, and unwashed for Edwin; rigid for the Payson Pant.
To navigate through the new arrivals, here are three starting points: theRegular Straight Japan Dark Used Blueby Edwin as an everyday jean, theRodolfo Selvage Rinse Blueby Tela Genova for those seeking selvedge, theAchille Grayby Aiburai to move away from indigo.
How to choose men's jeans
In store, we recommend starting with the fit, then the wash, and finally the fabric weight: this is the order in which these choices impact the final look and feel of the jeans.
The fit
A baggy jean like Edwin's Loose Fit leaves room through the thigh and leg and pairs well with bulky footwear, from work boots to thick-soled shoes. The Regular Straight falls straight over both boots and low-top shoes: it is the fit that pairs with fewer constraints. The Regular Tapered closes in towards the ankle, keeping the hem clean over sneakers and low shoes without stacking on the instep.
The wash
Unwashed and rigid indicate raw denim: the choice for jeans that shape to the wearer over time, like Edwin's Regular Straight Japan Unwashed or the Payson Pant Blue Rigid. Those who want dark blue without the break-in period of rigid fabric opt for a rinse or rinsed wash, like Aiburai jeans, Tela Genova selvedge styles, or Edwin's Loose Fit. Those looking for a pre-worn look from day one will find natural fading in Edwin's Dark Used Blue and Deep Dark Used washes.
Fabric weight
The Payson Pant features a 15.75 oz fabric: a heavy denim that provides extra warmth during colder months and requires a break-in period before softening. It is also the most accessible model in the collection, a solid entry point into unwashed denim. Conversely, Tela Genova's selvedge jeans and Edwin's Regular Straight styles fall into the mid-to-high range of the selection.
FAQ
What are baggy jeans?
They are loose-fitting jeans through the hip, thigh, and leg, draping loosely down to the hem. Among Edwin cuts, the widest is theLoose Fit Japan Rinsed: rinsed wash, delivering a dark colour and a garment already washed once.
Men's flare jeans and bootcut jeans: how do they differ from straight-leg jeans?
The flare flares noticeably from the knee to the hem. The bootcut widens slightly below the knee to fit over boots. The regular straight maintains the same width from the knee down. Among the models listed on this page, the closest to a bootcut for boot wearers is theRegular Straightby Edwin, in Dark Used Blue or Unwashed.
How do you choose the size for unwashed jeans?
Unwashed denim stretches at the waist and knees with wear; if the fabric is not sanforized, it may shrink on the first wash. Before choosing, it is best to check the product specs and compare them with a pair of jeans in the same fit you already wear. For any sizing questions, you can contact the Formia store.
What is selvedge denim?
It is denim woven on shuttle looms: the edge of the fabric is finished with a self-edge, recognizable by turning up the hem along the outseam. In the collection, it is featured in the name of theRodolfoand theItalo Selvage Rinse Blueby Tela Genova.
